tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18001034991459672402024-03-13T07:20:42.794-06:00A Modicum of IngenuityFree craft tutorials, including: sewing, reupholstery, knitting, crocheting.Jessica Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16356230686014962721noreply@blogger.comBlogger18125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1800103499145967240.post-69119532978190853492012-09-05T19:27:00.001-06:002012-09-10T15:40:40.557-06:00Tutorial: Color Your Pants<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3Ihz5tU_dzA/T96Lo5a3N8I/AAAAAAAAAYA/g0uodLfw7wo/s1600/Color_Your_Pants_Title.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img alt="" border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3Ihz5tU_dzA/T96Lo5a3N8I/AAAAAAAAAYA/g0uodLfw7wo/s640/Color_Your_Pants_Title.jpg" title="Color Your Pants: a Tutorial for Dyeing Jeans" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">I am in love with dyeing my own clothes. More specifically, I am a pants-dyeing fanatic. It's a disease, and I really hope you get it too. If nothing else, I feel like it's necessary to at least try it out once. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Here's what it looked like before the pants-dyeing process: </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">And here is the finished result after dyeing:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x4r_4rveH38/UEf5akWDPwI/AAAAAAAAAjg/mZlx9L6oVqY/s1600/After.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x4r_4rveH38/UEf5akWDPwI/AAAAAAAAAjg/mZlx9L6oVqY/s640/After.jpg" title="Dyeing Pants Tutorial: After" width="426" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Did I mention that I bought these pants for $4 at a second-hand store? And might I suggest that if you go to a second-hand store, you look out for stains. Some stains will not dye, and it ends up making them that much more obvious. It's generally not going to be the look you're going for.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KR0RrJPk3QI/UEf6P7_18kI/AAAAAAAAAjo/XEeAbSDjPJE/s1600/025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KR0RrJPk3QI/UEf6P7_18kI/AAAAAAAAAjo/XEeAbSDjPJE/s640/025.JPG" title="Color Your Pants Tutorial" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">So, what do you say? Won't you dye your pants? Eh?</span><br />
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HERE’S HOW</h2>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">MATERIALS: </span></span></h3>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Procion MX Dye.</span></span></li>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"> <a href="http://www.dickblick.com/products/jacquard-procion-mx-fiber-reactive-cold-water-dye/" target="_blank">Here</a> is where I purchased mine. (Dick Blick Art Materials)</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">This is a fiber-reactive dye, meaning it will not work on synthetic materials. Be sure to check your labels!</span></span></li>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Measuring Cups</span></span></li>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">I bought mine at the Dollar Store so I could keep this set separate from our food set. </span></span></li>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Salt: Non-Iodized</span></span></li>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">You normally use Iodized Salt when making food, but for dyeing you will need Non-Iodized Salt. It should specify on the front of the container. And bonus--Non-Iodized Salt is cheaper! </span></span> </li>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Rubber Gloves</span></span> </li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">5 – 15 Gallon Bucket</span></span> </li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Stirring Spoon</span></span> </li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Face Dust Mask</span></span></li>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Because the Dye and Soda Ash are powders and aren't super great for your lungs </span></span></li>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Soda Ash</span></span></li>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Purchased <a href="http://www.dickblick.com/products/jacquard-procion-mx-fiber-reactive-cold-water-dye/#description" target="_blank">Here</a>. (Dick Blick Art Materials) </span></span></li>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Synthrapol Detergent</span></span></li>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Purchased<b> </b><a href="http://www.dickblick.com/products/jacquard-procion-mx-fiber-reactive-cold-water-dye/#description" target="_blank">Here</a>. (Dick Blick Art Materials)</span></span></li>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">PRE-WASH:</span></span></h3>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Pre-wash the garment in the washing machine with detergent. I used Synthrapol (1T) and Soda Ash (3 T).</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Though people often skip the pre-wash step before dyeing, it really helps remove dirt and oils from your pants so that it will take in the dye better and more evenly. I really suggest you take the extra time to pre-wash!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: large;">DYEING:</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">I essentially followed the directions and tips for Immersion Dying Cellulose Fibers with Procion MX Dye found <a href="http://www.dickblick.com/pdfs/zz01302/PMX_Immersion_Dyeing_Instructions.pdf" target="_blank">here</a>, but I thought it might be helpful to walk you through the specific steps I went through for dyeing jeans. I also have some tips of my own.</span><br />
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<li><span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Soak the pants in water for 15 minutes.</span></span><img alt="" border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8lbmMytwP54/UEfvxx-7cGI/AAAAAAAAAic/OdjVI5mOZ4c/s640/IMG_0043.JPG" title="Soak Pants in Water for 15 Minutes" width="640" /><span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;"> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Pour the non-iodized salt and dye powder into the dyeing bucket. </span><span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">I used 3 1/2 cups salt and 3 T of dye. </span></li>
<ul><span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;"><i>The Procion MX Dye Immersion instructions linked above provide a list of suggested proportions of salt and dye based on the desired depth of intensity for your final color.</i></span></ul>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1Phpht-6fFk/T_Ckkky_lJI/AAAAAAAAAYM/6N7zrLRvMK8/s1600/IMG_0088.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1Phpht-6fFk/T_Ckkky_lJI/AAAAAAAAAYM/6N7zrLRvMK8/s640/IMG_0088.JPG" title="How to Dye Pants: Add Salt and Dye Powder" width="425" /></a></div>
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<li><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Fill warm (~105° F) water into the bucket. More water means a more diluted dye mixture. I used about 5 gallons of water.</span></span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Stir the dye, salt, and water until the mixture is completely dissolved. Oh, yes. The wooden spoon is now permanently dyed a nice red-pink color.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Lower the pants into the bucket of dye and fully immerse for 10-15 minutes.</span></li>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KDj65Jx5pdU/UEbi6EbEVbI/AAAAAAAAAf0/67tX5h6V8wI/s1600/IMG_0127.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KDj65Jx5pdU/UEbi6EbEVbI/AAAAAAAAAf0/67tX5h6V8wI/s640/IMG_0127.JPG" width="426" /></a> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">IMPORTANT: Stir the pants frequently to prevent discolorations from the dye collecting or missing wrinkled areas or pockets.</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f7fSXgMMxaQ/UEblbgqCUQI/AAAAAAAAAgA/8eoQpTJ9Av0/s1600/IMG_0141.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f7fSXgMMxaQ/UEblbgqCUQI/AAAAAAAAAgA/8eoQpTJ9Av0/s640/IMG_0141.JPG" title="Tutorial for Dyeing Jeans: Stir Frequently" width="426" /></a></div>
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<li><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Remove the pants, add the soda ash to the dye mixture, and stir the ash in completely. I used 1/3 cup of soda ash. </span></li>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oQ0I4AegfKA/UEbuH0B1H9I/AAAAAAAAAgg/NcNKdg1HlEU/s1600/IMG_0163.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oQ0I4AegfKA/UEbuH0B1H9I/AAAAAAAAAgg/NcNKdg1HlEU/s640/IMG_0163.JPG" title="Jean-Dyeing Tutorial: Soda Ash" width="426" /></a></div>
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<li><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Place the pants back into the dye mixture and immerse fully once more. Keep the pants in for 30-60 minutes depending on the depth of color you are hoping to achieve. (Or, if you're too anxious like me, go ahead and pull your pants out at 20 minutes and you'll have pink instead of red pants. But, learn from me instead.) <b>STIR FREQUENTLY!</b></span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Remove the pants and hose them off until the color is no longer visible from the dripping water.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Wring the pants a few time, and hose off remaining dye mixture.<span id="goog_1884289319"></span><span id="goog_1884289320"></span> </span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Place the pants in a bucket and take them inside for post-dye rinsing. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">POST-DYE RINSING</span></span></h3>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Send your dyed pants through the rinse cycle on the washing machine a few times until the water is clear. Again, I rinsed with Synthrapol (1 tsp) each time. </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Then, wear those suckers. Do your pants dance? Go to the nearest second-hand store and dye all of the pants ever.</span></span> <br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I had a friend tell me that since I'm a young woman, I can get away with bizarre color combinations without much worry. Whether or not this is true, I certainly have chosen to pretend it is. I am in full support of vibrant, mismatched colors. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I'm just happy that I'm living in a world where I can buy pants for $4 and turn it into this. </span>Please. Tell me how the dyeing goes.</span> <span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"> I'm dyeing to know...?</span></span><br />
<br />Jessica Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16356230686014962721noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1800103499145967240.post-89961299279391392312012-08-26T12:31:00.001-06:002012-09-20T23:46:01.899-06:00Beekeeper's Quilt: 40 Hexipuffs.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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So, I'm basically a hexipuff factory. Now that school is back in, being on the train for about 2 hours each day means that I can get around 3-4 of these done a day. Ignoring the fact that I'm becoming a brittle old lady from all of this, I'm hoping this means that I've effectively cut my expected time of completion in half. We'll see how this really goes in a few weeks...<br />
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Go <a href="http://a-modicum-of-ingenuity.blogspot.com/2012/08/beekeepers-quilt-10-hexipuffs.html" target="_blank">here</a> to see my first hexipuff post and look at how far I've come.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1sbVp1ZVK38/UDlXFT6EIeI/AAAAAAAAAeQ/qgJYpFbfnBM/s1600/IMG_1569.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1sbVp1ZVK38/UDlXFT6EIeI/AAAAAAAAAeQ/qgJYpFbfnBM/s640/IMG_1569.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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Then there's the fact that all of my plain-colored hexipuffs stand out too much and look so empty. Clearly, the only solution is to embroider some wonderful images on these guys. Any ideas?<br />
40 hexipuffs made in 25 days. Not too shabby, eh?<br />
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The hexagonal shape of the hexipuffs really seems like it would lend itself well to chemistry allusions.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8LB8nGnLedo/UDlXY2lmeJI/AAAAAAAAAeY/zIubCvVancA/s1600/IMG_1581.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8LB8nGnLedo/UDlXY2lmeJI/AAAAAAAAAeY/zIubCvVancA/s640/IMG_1581.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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That one with the mustache on it? That guy is starting off my collection of mustache hexipuffs. Should I portmanteau this? Mustachipuffs? Hexistaches?<br />
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Here is the mustache hexipuff closer up. Being a champion.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XPsIkofl2bQ/UDlXlvZZtUI/AAAAAAAAAeg/1Rt9LUBi3Ho/s1600/IMG_1599.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Sir Hexistache" border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XPsIkofl2bQ/UDlXlvZZtUI/AAAAAAAAAeg/1Rt9LUBi3Ho/s640/IMG_1599.JPG" title="Mustache Hexipuff" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here's the pattern I created for the mustache hexipuff. I first created the hexipuff using just the yellow yarn, and then I embroidered the mustache on using the duplicate stitch which copies the stitches of knitting so that it looks I knitted it this way to begin with. <a href="http://bellaknitting.typepad.com/bella_knitting/2007/08/duplicate-stitc.html" target="_blank">Here</a> is a good tutorial on the duplicate stitch on Bella Knitting.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E6zRsmuqxkE/UDlZtAS1HYI/AAAAAAAAAes/bh2x2wdgPJg/s1600/mustache_chart.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img alt="" border="0" height="370" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E6zRsmuqxkE/UDlZtAS1HYI/AAAAAAAAAes/bh2x2wdgPJg/s400/mustache_chart.JPG" title="Mustache Hexipuff Pattern Chart" width="400" /></a></div>
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More mustachipuffs to come... Jessica Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16356230686014962721noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1800103499145967240.post-31909196422615437332012-08-10T15:45:00.001-06:002012-08-11T21:16:39.048-06:00Beekeeper's Quilt: 10 Hexipuffs.<div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
I finally <b>caved</b>.</div>
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For those of you who are perhaps unfamiliar or out-of-touch with the online knitting community, I'd like to momentarily direct your attention here: <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-beekeepers-quilt" target="_blank">The Beekeeper's Quilt</a> by Tiny Owl Knits. The idea is to knit hexagonal-shaped plushie motifs ("hexipuffs"), stitch them together and form a quilt. I think it's swell. In order to avoid being such an impulse buyer, I let the idea of this project sit on the shelf for a few months, and when I came back to it I was still just as enamored and had to buy the pattern.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Hexipuffs are </span><i style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">addictive</span></i><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">. I'm not sure if that's a warning or a testimonial, but whatever the case I'm already up to 10.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xbau7O0QqA4/UCVxVp9zrII/AAAAAAAAAbw/NHr1_dK8XPE/s1600/IMG_1534.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="425" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xbau7O0QqA4/UCVxVp9zrII/AAAAAAAAAbw/NHr1_dK8XPE/s640/IMG_1534.JPG" title="Hexipuffs Beekeeper's Quilt" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">An interesting component of the hexipuff quilt is the suggestion to use your scrap sock yarn. I've never actually knitted any socks before nor have I saved up any sock yarn. So, clearly this does not apply to me and therefore won't be saving nearly as much money as I theoretically could have been if I were a sock-knitter. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">But I, being the silly person that I am, immediately ran out to buy armfuls of yarn with a sick, sick grin on my face....</span></div>
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I'm even tracking hexipuffs that I make with an Excel spreadsheet. I'm also watching <a href="http://www.khanacademy.org/" target="_blank">Khan Academy</a> videos while I knit. Kind of amazing.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">There is one real hindrance to the whole Beekeper's Quilt, and that is the shear number of puffs that must be knitted for a decently-sized blanket. It's close to 400....And if we give a time estimate of around 40 minutes per hexipuff, then it would take at least 11 days straight to make all of these. So, while every time you finish one you feel a genuine sense of accomplishment, it's entirely a delusion. When you start thinking about knitting hexipuffs in the sense of proportions, you realize you are only adding a fourth of one percent (0.25%) completion to the entire quilt with every hexipuff. Then it makes you feel kind of small. And since this post is taking on a weird, metaphysical feel to it, I'm going to move on.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">My <span style="line-height: 115%;">fiancé has even been helping me knit a few rows occasionally, which I love. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">I also bought 4 sets of size 3 needles so that other people can hexipuff with me (did you catch that hexipuff is both a noun and a verb?). </span></span> </div>
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Have I yet convinced you to start knitting these <span style="color: #6aa84f;">magical</span> hexipuffs? Or at least to start knitting? </div>
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I sure hope so.</div>
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<br />Jessica Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16356230686014962721noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1800103499145967240.post-49371533612361748012012-07-26T22:04:00.002-06:002012-08-11T21:17:01.637-06:00Tutorial: Jacob's Ladder Toy<div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: small;">I have a handful of toys I distinctly remember cherishing as a child. To me,
these toys have really superseded the true test that is time and to this day I
think back on them with joy. Among these toys were my <i><span style="color: black;">Lite-Brite</span></i> (a toy that if
plugged in for longer than 5 minutes was easily considered a fire hazard), my
<i>Gameboy</i> which was the introduction to my obsession with Tetris, a stuffed animal
dog from my piano teacher whom I named <i>Patch</i> and everyone knew was my first
love, and a quaint old toy from FAO Schwarz: a <b>Jacob’s Ladder</b>. I enjoyed this
toy because it seemed like regardless of how long I played with it, its charm
was never lost. So, when I found it again the other day, I knew I had to make
one of my own. And perhaps 20 more in the future…</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jLpgstqcAPs/UBIRe7oauUI/AAAAAAAAAag/Lno61fuLDys/s1600/Title_2_Jacobs_Ladder_Tutorial.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="427" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jLpgstqcAPs/UBIRe7oauUI/AAAAAAAAAag/Lno61fuLDys/s640/Title_2_Jacobs_Ladder_Tutorial.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">I wanted the wood to be excessively dark and the ribbons to be vibrant colors for a little juxtaposition. I love that it gives this old toy a bit of a modern zing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5d2qoiHYXUU/UBDzDxqwiZI/AAAAAAAAAaM/xcOvYE5mJyU/s1600/Jacobs_Ladder_Blocks_Tumbling_Sequence_Scaled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JXqDDfN9ofc/UA-bipJJXGI/AAAAAAAAAZY/fi2h_hF2HNc/s1600/IMG_1468.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JXqDDfN9ofc/UA-bipJJXGI/AAAAAAAAAZY/fi2h_hF2HNc/s640/IMG_1468.JPG" width="426" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Even after knowing how this toy works, the optical illusion it creates is still fascinating to me and I often get lost just watching the segments tumble down the ladder. The click-clack of the wooden pieces doesn't hurt either; everything such a breath of nostalgia. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">I've seen methods out there where you can use tacks to keep the ribbons in place at the ends of the blocks, but I prefer using two wooden slats and gluing them together instead. Not only is this the way my olden Jacob's Ladder Toy is constructed, but it also means that you can have much thinner wooden slats, which I prefer.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Want to make your own Jacob's Ladder Wooden Toy?</span></div>
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HERE’S HOW</span></h2>
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MATERIALS:</span></h3>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">12 wooden slats (will be glued together to form the 6
segments)<br /><b>Dimensions:</b> Practically anything. Not too thick, and must be wide
enough to comfortable fit 3 ribbons side by side<br /> * My slat dimensions
were 0.12” x 1.4375” x 2.125” purchased <a href="http://factorydirectcraft.com/catalog/products/1302_2110_1397_2593-23343-unfinished_wood_rectangles_50pcs.html" target="_blank">here</a></span>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Ribbon <br /> * Both sides will be seen, so don’t pick ribbons that are
only patterned on one side
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Wood glue</span></li>
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OPTIONAL:</span></h4>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Wood stain, polyurethane, brush, lint-free rag
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Clamp</span> </li>
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PREPARATION:</span></h3>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Finish one side of each of the 12 wooden slats (this will be the “right”
side) any way you desire. They can be painted, covered in fabric, mod podged
with scrapbook paper, etc.<br /> <br /> * I decided to use wood stain and polyurethane. Here’s how I did it:<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4DOxGXA6gBM/UBDqi_hDBWI/AAAAAAAAAaA/bUiCIe9-XKs/s1600/Staining_Instructions_scaled.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="174" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4DOxGXA6gBM/UBDqi_hDBWI/AAAAAAAAAaA/bUiCIe9-XKs/s640/Staining_Instructions_scaled.jpg" width="640" /></a> </span></li>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Apply the wood stain to the slat. Get the sides too!
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Let the stain sit ~10 minutes, remove with lint-free rag. After 4+ hours,
do steps 1&2 once more for darker coloring. Let dry at least 8 hours before
putting on polyurethane.
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Apply thin coat of polyurethane. Let dry for a few hours and put on a few
more coats as desired.<br /><br /> </span> </li>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Cut 1 center ribbon and 2 side ribbons all of the same length: <br /><b>Ribbon Length</b>You want the ribbons to be
approximately 3x the finished length of your Jacob’s Ladder<br /> * Measure
the length of 1 slat and multiply that by 18. Cut each of your ribbons to this
length.
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Mark a centerline and a line to either side of the centerline on the wrong
side of each slat. These lines denote the placement of your ribbons.</span></li>
</ol>
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CONSTRUCTION:</span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XL-99tYneeo/UAuceogoaaI/AAAAAAAAAZI/v7OaBMrsHg0/s1600/Construction.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XL-99tYneeo/UAuceogoaaI/AAAAAAAAAZI/v7OaBMrsHg0/s1600/Construction.jpg" /></a></span></div>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Lay down the first slat, wrong side facing up.
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Place the center ribbon along the centerline with the ribbon extending past
the top of the slat.<br />Place the side ribbons along the side lines with the
ribbons extending past the bottom of the slat.<br />* I used mini scrapbook
squares to keep my ribbons held down before gluing. I recommend against using
something like tape because the glue has a hard time adhering to it.
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Glue a second slat onto the first, wrong sides facing each other.<br />* I
used a clamp to ensure a secure bond<br />* Be sure to wipe any excess glue off
with a damp towel
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Fold the center ribbon down.<br />Fold the side ribbons up.<br />* Take care to
not twist your ribbons<br />* Do NOT tape the ribbons to the right side of your
segments otherwise your Jacob’s Ladder won’t operate properly!
</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Lay down a slat onto the first segment, wrong side facing up.
</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Fold the center ribbon up.<br />Fold the side ribbons down.<br />* Again, mini
scrapbook squares help keep the ribbons aligned correctly.
</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Glue a slat on top of this slat with wrong sides facing.
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Continue steps 4-7 until you reach the gluing part for the last segment.
<br /><br />To FINISH: Before gluing the last segment, cut the ribbons so they do
not extend beyond the slat. Glue the last segment.</span> </li>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>***NOTE:</b> If you find that your Jacob's Ladder toy<u> doesn't work freely at first</u>, you should bend all of the segments back and forth a few times. I found that mine needed a little breaking-in before it really started to work for me. And now it's very fluid.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5d2qoiHYXUU/UBDzDxqwiZI/AAAAAAAAAaM/xcOvYE5mJyU/s1600/Jacobs_Ladder_Blocks_Tumbling_Sequence_Scaled.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="237" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5d2qoiHYXUU/UBDzDxqwiZI/AAAAAAAAAaM/xcOvYE5mJyU/s640/Jacobs_Ladder_Blocks_Tumbling_Sequence_Scaled.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>Jessica Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16356230686014962721noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1800103499145967240.post-74259658365241979682012-05-28T16:04:00.001-06:002012-08-11T21:17:30.357-06:00Tutorial: Add In-Seam Pockets to a Dress<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">It’s finally warm and sunny outside, which means
that I have ample opportunities and a not-so-subtle excuse to wear my summer
dresses. And, of course, to go buy some more. However, I’m always
so distraught to rediscover that the majority of my lovely summer-wear lacks any
pockets. I’m a pocket girl, and I can’t imagine not being able to slip my
phone, keys, chapstick, and/or wallet into my pockets and run out the door. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;"> </span>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">A purse/bag has its place, but 1) I like knowing
that my most important items are closest to me, and that 2) I don’t need a purse
to accompany me everywhere I go. For instance, I’m a college student, and that
means I carry a <u>heavy</u> backpack around. I often leave my backpack in
study rooms, classrooms, and other places for a while to go get some campus
food, visit the computer lab, etc. Therefore, I need somewhere to store at
least my phone, money, and school ID. Pockets are really a wonderful solution
for this! Why don’t all dresses come with pockets? <i>Beats me</i>. I added
my own in-seam pockets to my first summer dress of the year, and wrote a
tutorial for anyone else who wants to do the same:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;"> </span>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vvm3uJnSuuc/T8MM_JwcpCI/AAAAAAAAAUQ/_uVeIchtclI/s1600/Add_Pockets_to_Dress_Title.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" height="422" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vvm3uJnSuuc/T8MM_JwcpCI/AAAAAAAAAUQ/_uVeIchtclI/s640/Add_Pockets_to_Dress_Title.jpg" title="Add In-Seam Pockets to a Dress Tutorial" width="640" /></a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Georgia;"><u>In-seam pockets</u> are great for a few
reasons:</span></span>
<br />
<ol>
<li><span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">They are essentially invisible because they lie on
the seam of the dress.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">The work needed to add these in is practically
minimal.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">You are only restricted by the size of your
dress as far as how large you want to make your pockets. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Pockets in a dress! It’s like bacon for
dessert.</span></li>
</ol>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">I made mine big enough to very comfortably fit my
cellphone and a wallet on the other side with room for small extra things. And
because they are in-seam pockets, you can basically choose whatever
color/pattern of fabric to line your pockets with, because they will rarely be
seen. I still decided on a muted, white fabric so that no attention is drawn to
the insides of my pockets just in case....</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;"></span><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">See how much room there is in there? Large pockets
are just so much more practical.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--Egt5FkD-RQ/T8PTrLs3z3I/AAAAAAAAAWc/yCbQu3okw5w/s1600/IMG_1858.JPG"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--Egt5FkD-RQ/T8PTrLs3z3I/AAAAAAAAAWc/yCbQu3okw5w/s640/IMG_1858.JPG" width="480" /></a></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;">Ready to get started?</span>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<br />
<h1>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span></h1>
<h1>
<span style="font-size: small;">
HERE’S HOW</span></h1>
<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
<span style="font-size: small;">
MATERIALS:</span></h3>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Scissors</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Fabric for pocket lining</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Fabric Marker or Tailor’s Chalk</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Sewing Pins</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Seam Ripper (craft knife or scissors can be
substituted)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Sewing Machine (with thread)</span></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-size: small;">1. Decide how big you want your pockets to be, and cut 4 from
your fabric of choice (2 from the right side, 2 from the wrong side)</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">I drew my pocket pattern piece from an existing
pocket I love. You can download the pattern I used here:<a href="http://www.scribd.com/doc/95080228/Pocket-Piece" style="display: block; font-family: Helvetica,Arial,Sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 12px auto 6px; text-decoration: underline;" title="View Pocket Piece on Scribd">Pocket Piece</a><iframe class="scribd_iframe_embed" data-aspect-ratio="0.772727272727273" data-auto-height="true" frameborder="0" height="600" id="doc_75122" scrolling="no" src="http://www.scribd.com/embeds/95080228/content?start_page=1&view_mode=list&access_key=key-hpn67hwnkqsil62p0nw" width="100%"></iframe></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">You can also find/make your own pattern piece.
Keep in mind that the actual finished size will be smaller because of seam
allowances, so be sure to add an inch or two all around to however big you want
your pockets to be.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Cut a front and back side of the piece for each
pocket. You will end up with 4 pieces. I used a thinner cotton material, but
if you want your pockets to be more resilient, be sure to use a thicker
fabric.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-juv8sQdnleY/T8PnVOuc0OI/AAAAAAAAAWw/P55cH5PIb90/s1600/Cut_Out_Pockets_with_Measurements.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-juv8sQdnleY/T8PnVOuc0OI/AAAAAAAAAWw/P55cH5PIb90/s640/Cut_Out_Pockets_with_Measurements.jpg" title="Pocket Pattern Piece" width="640" /></a></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span></h3>
<h3>
<span style="font-size: small;">2. Mark where to place your pockets</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Use a fabric marker or tailor’s chalk to mark off
the placement of your pockets. It helps to mark the pocket placement while
wearing your garment. Get a good feel for where your hands would naturally
migrate to locate a pocket, and mark this with a line.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Take off your dress/skirt, fold it in half and make
sure the marks line up so that both left and right pockets will sit evenly. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">The lines you mark need to be just barely larger
than the height of the straight line of the pocket piece. For my pockets, this
meant that I marked off just larger than 8-inch lines.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BkwRGjrAOY4/T8PpnEpKrnI/AAAAAAAAAW4/5hg-5aQGZDc/s640/Mark_Pocket_Placement.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="Mark Placement for Pockets on Dress" width="480" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span></h3>
<h3>
<span style="font-size: small;">3. Rip the seams</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Use a seam ripper or craft knife to rip the seams
right along the lines you marked off for the pocket placements. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">The length you seam-rip should be barely larger
than the height of the straight line on the pocket piece (my pocket line height
was 8 inches, so I ripped 8.25 inches).</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A-Cr0fHinH0/T8O8UszJsTI/AAAAAAAAAVg/4yfkpZx4b9k/s1600/IMG_1798.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A-Cr0fHinH0/T8O8UszJsTI/AAAAAAAAAVg/4yfkpZx4b9k/s640/IMG_1798.JPG" title="Rip Seams for Pockets Along Sides of Dress" width="480" /></a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span></h3>
<h3>
<span style="font-size: small;">4. Pin the pockets to the dress and sew them on</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Pin the straight edge of one of the pocket pieces
to the front edge piece of the dress with <b>right sides facing</b>.
Do the same for the back edge piece of the dress.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Sew the pocket pieces to the dress by sewing in a
straight line next to the straight edges of the pieces. I used a seam allowance
of 1/2”. Use the dotted lines in the image below as a reference. Don’t forget
to lock your stitches in by backstitching at the beginning and end of the
lines.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">I skipped this brief step, but I suggest that you
press your seam allowances toward the pocket, and then press the pockets away
from the dress. This will help them sit flat and inside your dress.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s0Eij6QX05Q/T8O-xvZDP7I/AAAAAAAAAWA/nTI1uCVU24M/s1600/Pin_Pockets_to_Dress_and_Sew.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s0Eij6QX05Q/T8O-xvZDP7I/AAAAAAAAAWA/nTI1uCVU24M/s640/Pin_Pockets_to_Dress_and_Sew.jpg" title="Pin Pockets to Sides of Dress and Sew" width="482" /></a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span></h3>
<h3>
<span style="font-size: small;">5. Push the pocket pieces to the inside of the dress and turn
the dress inside-out</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Push both of the pocket pieces to the inside of the
dress.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Turn the dress inside-out.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MJZ-GCmSZBc/T8O8ozQ2zJI/AAAAAAAAAVw/BCGHFoZZcxA/s1600/Push_Pockets_to_Inside_of_Dress.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MJZ-GCmSZBc/T8O8ozQ2zJI/AAAAAAAAAVw/BCGHFoZZcxA/s640/Push_Pockets_to_Inside_of_Dress.JPG" title="Push Pockets to the Inside of Dress" width="480" /></a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span></h3>
<h3>
<span style="font-size: small;">6. Align the pocket pieces together and pin with right sides
facing</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Now that the dress is turned inside-out, align the
pocket pieces together and make sure that the right sides are facing.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Pin the pocket pieces together.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CQB-tspzjVI/T8PwP-ARtlI/AAAAAAAAAXE/CNM6Gzqyp2g/s1600/IMG_1838.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CQB-tspzjVI/T8PwP-ARtlI/AAAAAAAAAXE/CNM6Gzqyp2g/s640/IMG_1838.JPG" title="Align the Pocket Pieces Together" width="480" /></a></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span></h3>
<h3>
<span style="font-size: small;">7. Sew along the seam</span> </h3>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Starting slightly above where you started seam
ripping, sew along the original seam of the dress, then around the pocket, and
back down the remaining seam of the dress slightly past where the seam was
ripped. Sew this in one continuous line, and backstitch at the beginning and
end of the seam. I used a 1/2” seam allowance.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GFyDxjuTxgY/T8O8qrY1hlI/AAAAAAAAAV4/qsoiDTbxWBE/s1600/Sew_Along_Seam_and_Pocket.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GFyDxjuTxgY/T8O8qrY1hlI/AAAAAAAAAV4/qsoiDTbxWBE/s640/Sew_Along_Seam_and_Pocket.jpg" title="Sew Along the Pocket and Dress Seam" width="480" /></a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">If you need to, go slowly around the curves of the
pocket to help keep an even line.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;"> </span>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4_SL93DihG8/T8O_adZ0EVI/AAAAAAAAAWI/dBT6Dy3DKqs/s1600/IMG_1849.JPG"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4_SL93DihG8/T8O_adZ0EVI/AAAAAAAAAWI/dBT6Dy3DKqs/s640/IMG_1849.JPG" width="480" /></a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span></h3>
<h3>
<span style="font-size: small;">8. Finish the other pocket the same way, then iron the pockets
to the front</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">If you haven’t already done so, go back and add the
other pocket on using the same instructions.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Working on the inside of the garment still, use an
iron to press the pockets to the front of the dress. This will make it so that
the pockets will not have a tendency to fall toward the back of the dress since
they are sitting in the seam. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pFn61x7H2IE/T8PAgabKXbI/AAAAAAAAAWQ/Xv1HyqUPTKk/s1600/Iron_Pockets_Toward_Front.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pFn61x7H2IE/T8PAgabKXbI/AAAAAAAAAWQ/Xv1HyqUPTKk/s640/Iron_Pockets_Toward_Front.jpg" title="Iron the Pockets to the Front of the Dress" width="626" /></a></span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HkK7EeOYjdg/T8O2Vd3GecI/AAAAAAAAAVE/f8yAjcOtudQ/s1600/Push_Pockets_to_Inside_of_Dress.JPG"><br /></a></span>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X_1ZtMKsaEk/T8O3b750jsI/AAAAAAAAAVU/U0r19EQXD54/s1600/Iron_Pockets_Toward_Front.jpg"><br /></a></span>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MQrS_jpZrEI/T8O2XPT3_AI/AAAAAAAAAVM/uAk9kaMqIpc/s1600/Sew_Along_Seam_and_Pocket.jpg"><br /></a></span>
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-size: small;">9. Turn your dress right-side out and ENJOY!</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;">Go ahead and enjoy your pocketed garment! While
you’re at it, just go ahead and do it to the rest of your closet as well. I
know I will….</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sbTZv2mOsYM/T8PTx7u4mHI/AAAAAAAAAWk/H0Ph9_vN0Yk/s1600/IMG_1856.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sbTZv2mOsYM/T8PTx7u4mHI/AAAAAAAAAWk/H0Ph9_vN0Yk/s640/IMG_1856.JPG" title="Adding Pockets to a Dress Tutorial" width="480" /></a></span><span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: small;"> </span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>Jessica Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16356230686014962721noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1800103499145967240.post-35479093468009214632012-04-03T00:32:00.001-06:002012-08-10T22:56:50.444-06:00Tutorial: Using Remove Background in Word 2010<div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FWEpo2JW_Gc/T3p9zQL7vQI/AAAAAAAAASM/d51uJDHTee0/s1600/B&W-Title.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;">I absolutely love the look of a sharply-contrasted <b>black</b> and </span><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-size: small;">white</span><span style="font-size: small;"> photo. There's something about the juxtaposition involved with creating such a distinct picture while somehow leaving a sort of subtlety from the absence of color.</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;">It's fascinating to me. Do you enjoy this too?</span></div>
<div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;">I also love that by changing this particular photo to purely black and white, the Captain America mask that my fiance was sporting was magically transformed into a seemingly awesome retro pilot mask. Do you see that or is it just me? </span></div>
<div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;">When I discovered that with Word 2010 comes an additional feature for picture manipulation entitled "Remove Background", I immediately saw <u>endless possibilities</u> for using this. </span></div>
<div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><i>NOTE: </i> Many graphics programs come with a similar feature (often more than one) that allows the user to remove the background in similar ways to those described here. My intent in this tutorial is simply to describe how the Remove Background feature may be utilized in Word either for those who are not as familiar with or do not have access to graphics programs, or for anyone who is merely interested in learning how to use Word to more of its full capacity. </span></div>
<div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<h2 style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><u>REMOVE BACKGROUND in WORD 2010</u></span></h2>
<h2 style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
</h2>
<div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8-emkwPQd5U/T3qCpVphNsI/AAAAAAAAASU/bp4M9pmi54I/s1600/B&W-Title.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="386" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8-emkwPQd5U/T3qCpVphNsI/AAAAAAAAASU/bp4M9pmi54I/s640/B&W-Title.PNG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
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<div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<a name='more'></a><div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<h3 style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;">
1. Open a picture and click Remove Background.</span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Go to INSERT --> PICTURE and choose an image. I decided upon this lovely one of a strange man wearing a children's super hero mask.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">With the image selected, go to FORMAT --> REMOVE BACKGROUND
(left-most icon on the ribbon). Pieces of the image will then be
colored purple.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MNZmkraveO0/T3qG9vsqXrI/AAAAAAAAAS0/WGJvJSWeJrg/s1600/B&W-Step-0.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="464" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MNZmkraveO0/T3qG9vsqXrI/AAAAAAAAAS0/WGJvJSWeJrg/s640/B&W-Step-0.png" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Anything tinted purple represents the background and will be removed if we were to choose Keep Changes. We need to fix this to include all of the image we want to keep.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ukPu7HNu9zY/T3qFgR6m8YI/AAAAAAAAASk/jOoiuGNNLoE/s1600/B&W-Step-1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="464" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ukPu7HNu9zY/T3qFgR6m8YI/AAAAAAAAASk/jOoiuGNNLoE/s640/B&W-Step-1.png" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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2. Drag the sides of the selection box to include the entire desired area to keep.</span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Expand or contract the selection marquee by dragging the sides to include all pieces of the image you want to keep. Notice, the program is rather good at already guessing which pieces I want to keep, and which pieces are the background. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VWgx5Icvi5M/T3qJgYNcDYI/AAAAAAAAAS8/W5_J7SJTC0o/s1600/B&W-Step-1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="464" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VWgx5Icvi5M/T3qJgYNcDYI/AAAAAAAAAS8/W5_J7SJTC0o/s640/B&W-Step-1.png" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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3. Click Mark Areas to Keep. Draw lines / dots on any purple sections that you want to keep.</span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Click MARK AREAS TO KEEP. Then, select sections of the image to keep by clicking and dragging to make lines across these sections. You can also place dots by merely clicking on spots of the image to keep. I've marked the lines I drew with white arrows.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><i><b>TIP: </b>This part will take a little tweaking; use CTRL + Z to undo something if it doesn't work for you.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Do not fret too much about too much of the background being included--we will take care of this in our next step.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Wv3uDuh9UI0/T3qMB_k_zFI/AAAAAAAAATE/eL7GFv1Ie6k/s1600/B&W-Step-3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Wv3uDuh9UI0/T3qMB_k_zFI/AAAAAAAAATE/eL7GFv1Ie6k/s640/B&W-Step-3.png" width="454" /></a></span></div>
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4. Click Mark Areas to Remove. Draw lines / dots on sections to remove.</span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Click MARK AREAS TO REMOVE. Select portions of the image that you want to be removed by clicking and dragging to make lines across these sections. As with the Mark Areas to Keep, you can also
place dots by merely clicking on spots of the image to remove. I've marked the lines I drew with white arrows.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Again, CTRL + Z is your buddy. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cSlFrcKXhUQ/T3qPK_DI-8I/AAAAAAAAATM/fgKljwdd_84/s1600/B&W-Step-4.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cSlFrcKXhUQ/T3qPK_DI-8I/AAAAAAAAATM/fgKljwdd_84/s640/B&W-Step-4.png" width="456" /></a></span></div>
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5. Click Keep Changes.</span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Continue to use MARK AREAS TO REMOVE & MARK AREAS TO DELETE until desired. Click KEEP CHANGES to accept the image. The background tinted in purple will now be removed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><i><b>TIP: </b>You can always return to the original image or readjust the background by selecting Remove Background again and either Discarding All Changes or editing the background to remove.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dk9b-Fn0mWc/T3qRF_khIAI/AAAAAAAAATU/s3sivXW1d7U/s1600/B&W-Step-5.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dk9b-Fn0mWc/T3qRF_khIAI/AAAAAAAAATU/s3sivXW1d7U/s640/B&W-Step-5.png" width="454" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Ta-Duh! This is how to use Remove Background in Word 2010.</b> Continue on to learn how to jazz up this image into a formatted black and white picture.....</span></div>
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1. Click Color, and choose a Color format.</span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small;">With the image selected, go to (Picture Tools) FORMAT --> COLOR and select a color format for the image. I chose the <b>Black and White: 25%</b>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vz0M7kkLqgs/T3qTtIJr04I/AAAAAAAAATc/9S1YFpFOGrA/s1600/B&W-Step-6.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="464" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vz0M7kkLqgs/T3qTtIJr04I/AAAAAAAAATc/9S1YFpFOGrA/s640/B&W-Step-6.png" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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2. Click Picture Layout, and choose a Layout Format.</span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small;">With the image selected, go to (Picture Tools) FORMAT --> PICTURE LAYOUT and select a layout format for the image. Hover the mouse over each of the options to see the Live Preview of what the layout will look like. I chose the top left option.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-82pyhne1BBM/T3qVWYEPE7I/AAAAAAAAATk/7NusLy2IjLY/s1600/B&W-Step-8.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="464" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-82pyhne1BBM/T3qVWYEPE7I/AAAAAAAAATk/7NusLy2IjLY/s640/B&W-Step-8.png" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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3. Add Finishing Touches (e.g. Text, Borders, Shading, etc.)</span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small;">To insert dressy text, I like to use the pre-defined WordArt Styles. Either insert a text box or use the one from the picture layout and then change the WordArt by going to (SmartArt Tools) FORMAT --> WORDART STYLES and clicking the drop-down arrow next to the example letters.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-li31rjZHqyc/T3qXi1oOZ1I/AAAAAAAAATs/FGmv062RI-E/s1600/B&W-Step-9.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="464" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-li31rjZHqyc/T3qXi1oOZ1I/AAAAAAAAATs/FGmv062RI-E/s640/B&W-Step-9.png" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Now, add a border by going to (SmartArt Tools) FORMAT --> SHAPE OUTLINE and selecting a fancy color. Or non-fancy. Your choice.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-myIYGxwh1Y0/T3qYV6oTfTI/AAAAAAAAAT0/cwrLYTuGppo/s1600/B&W-Step-10.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="462" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-myIYGxwh1Y0/T3qYV6oTfTI/AAAAAAAAAT0/cwrLYTuGppo/s640/B&W-Step-10.png" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">There you have it: A fighter pilot fit to rival Snoopy. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lF59RxCJ8SM/T3qYz-82CMI/AAAAAAAAAT8/EIliYKOJw40/s1600/B&W-Step-11.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lF59RxCJ8SM/T3qYz-82CMI/AAAAAAAAAT8/EIliYKOJw40/s1600/B&W-Step-11.png" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">How are you going to use Remove Background? Do you have any extra tips on using it?</span></div>Jessica Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16356230686014962721noreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1800103499145967240.post-76654347107019090162012-03-17T17:23:00.000-06:002012-08-11T21:18:03.431-06:00Tutorial: Blocking Acrylic Yarn<div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;">I work with <b>Acrylic </b>yarn a <u>lot</u>. And for some reason, I feel the need to justify this to you. I'll just say that Acrylic lends itself well to the type of projects I tend to make (e.g. 8-bit game crochet, miscellaneous items that need to be durable, etc.). Furthermore, I rarely ever make any sort of garment, thereby making it not economically nor practically favorable to work with cellulose or natural fibers. Lastly, there's that small part of my 12-year-old self that sort of loves the squeaky, grossly-colored variegated yarns of mismatched and puke-styled <b style="color: #c27ba0;">purples</b> and <b><span style="color: #38761d;">greens</span></b> and says I couldn't ever possibly let go of <b>acrylic</b> yarns.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">I've almost finished a knitting project made entirely of acrylic yarn. Honestly, I make many things without finishing them properly and I normally regret not putting in that little bit of extra time to make it look more professional. This time, I'm doing it right; I'm finishing my knitted project off by blocking each individual square, and I am sharing the tutorial with you. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Everyone has a slightly different method they prefer for blocking yarn. In fact, some people will argue with you that blocking acrylic yarn should </span><span style="font-size: small;">NEVER be done. But, I believe in lightly blocking acrylic. <i>Keep in mind that your blocking will be permanent.</i> I've tried using steam before, and I find that with the yarn I use (most often Red Heart, and Loops & Threads Impeccable), this ends up making the yarn really flat, shiny, and scratchy. Also, you can use this method for blocking other types of materials too!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Here is my method for how to </span><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Block Acrylic Yarn</b>:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-35aZX9Gf8qQ/T2UVSZMJX6I/AAAAAAAAARg/EuizIigclTI/s1600/Tutorial_Blocking-Title.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="490" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-35aZX9Gf8qQ/T2UVSZMJX6I/AAAAAAAAARg/EuizIigclTI/s640/Tutorial_Blocking-Title.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Make your own Blocking Materials:</b></span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b> Materials:</b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b> </b></span><span style="font-size: small;">Foam core board, ruler, craft knife, thin batting, scissors, tape.<b> </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F6eg22y_LoM/T2UNarcaduI/AAAAAAAAARY/9Z_0BNjs7m0/s1600/Tutorial_Blocking-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F6eg22y_LoM/T2UNarcaduI/AAAAAAAAARY/9Z_0BNjs7m0/s640/Tutorial_Blocking-1.jpg" width="517" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">1. Measure the foam board to the size you'd like your finished pieces to be. My squares were each to be 10"x10".</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">2. Cut the piece out of the foam board.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">3. Lay the board atop a thin layer of batting, and cut the batting leaving a couple of inches overhanging on all sides.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">4. Fold a side of the batting over the board and tape it down.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">5. Fold and tape the remaining sides of batting over the board, keeping the batting taut as you go.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">6. The front of the blocking board is the side completely covered in batting.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Blocking Acrylic Yarn:</b></span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b> Materials: </b>Blocking square, T-pins, Spray Bottle with water, material to block.<b> </b></span> </div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tfvWokrNQ_k/T2UBb6HgzJI/AAAAAAAAARI/eHMMQKPwLYw/s1600/Tutorial_Blocking-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tfvWokrNQ_k/T2UBb6HgzJI/AAAAAAAAARI/eHMMQKPwLYw/s640/Tutorial_Blocking-2.jpg" width="450" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">1. Lay the material to be blocked onto the blocking board face-up.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">2. Start by pinning the piece of material on all corners, stretching it out evenly. T-pins are my favorite to use for this.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">3. Now pin the centers of each side.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">4. Continue placing pins on all of the sides, interspersing them between the existing pins until the piece appears as desired. (I used 32 pins total.)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">5. Spray the piece lightly with water until semi-damp.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">6. Blot the material with a dry rag to remove some of the water. Then, wait until dry and remove the pins. Ta-da!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Here are all of the before and after pictures so you can see beneficial the blocking was:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qrbRQB_TsoI/T2UbjQ2qNxI/AAAAAAAAARo/LjXwQXzjcGY/s1600/Turorial_Blocking-Before&After.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qrbRQB_TsoI/T2UbjQ2qNxI/AAAAAAAAARo/LjXwQXzjcGY/s640/Turorial_Blocking-Before&After.jpg" width="420" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">So, the next time you're working on a project and think that it'll be too difficult to block it, just try this method! It's fast, works well, and doesn't leave your project feeling scratchy or looking gross.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Let me know if you've tried this or you have any other favorite methods for blocking!</span></div>Jessica Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16356230686014962721noreply@blogger.com66tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1800103499145967240.post-11381401460194142912012-02-28T21:17:00.000-07:002012-02-28T21:17:09.968-07:00The Downfall of Cubicle WallsYou know what they say about cubicle partition walls......<br />
[Do they actually say something about cubicle partition walls?]<br />
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Well I certainly wish there was some cliched, overused aphorism about them.<br />
Because maybe then you would have considered that at least some partial truth must lie in the phrase.<br />
And you would perhaps have reconsidered your actions.<br />
Or likely just whispered less audibly<br />
about the girl adjacent to your cubicle.<br />
<br />
Because there's this thing about the brain being wired to hear its own name even amidst the densest droning of sound. <br />
Ergo, you can be sure that she'll have heard you.<br />
So feel free to share all of the judgmental things you can think of about her.<br />
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She<br />
will<br />
really<br />
appreciate it. <br />
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Jessica Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16356230686014962721noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1800103499145967240.post-90480130559652217642012-02-13T23:00:00.002-07:002012-08-10T22:58:50.173-06:00Sweatshirt to Baby Valentine's Shirt Refashion.I'm not really into Valentine's day; call me the <b><span style="font-size: large;">Valentine's Scrooge</span></b>. Actually, <u>please don't</u>. There's something about it that has always felt so forced to me. This seemingly arbitrary day that dictates when we should show an excess amount of love to those we care about most. It's always made me feel <span style="font-size: large;"><i>silly</i></span>...As if my love to you on the 14th should somehow manifest itself in ways that are more obvious and complete than at any other day of the year. That's not to say that there aren't people who celebrate Valentine's day in a very personal, discrete manner. Ultimately, I think that's all that really matters: what does it mean to you? To me, it represents an absurd amount of artificial gifting, and almost necessary tokens of affection that it creates not a day of appreciation and love, but of expectations and anxiety. I know. I sound like I've been let down on Valentine's day, or dumped, or single and heartbroken for them all, or just really loveless. But I haven't, and I'm not. I just see people <span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">passing by</span> me every year rushing to find <span style="color: #783f04;"><b>chocolates</b> </span>or<b> <span style="color: red;">roses</span></b> or even a more specialized, personal gift that will tell that special someone they mean the world to them. And it made me realize that it seems almost impossible for a day to try to encompass so much emotion and meaning. Because, in my eyes, it's hard to even fit all of that love and compassion into one year, let alone one day. Which perhaps makes me more sappy than someone who celebrates Valentine's day with real vigor. I think that every day in some way should be a kudos to love: because truly, is there anything meaningful without?<br />
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With that being said, nobody can deny a box of 24 Fun Dips for $2.64. Really, I would spend twice that just for the sugar sticks (is that gross? Is there anyone else like me out there?). Anytime I eat one of the sugar sticks, it feels like one of those moments when you're licking the spices off of the Doritos and you think to yourself, 'This is really disgusting. I feel like a terrible human being right now. But it's so delicious, I'm going to keep on keeping on'. <br />
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And after all that, I still found it in my heart to sew my baby sister something for Valentine's day. I found a couple of really cheap sweatshirts/long-sleeve t's at Walmart and couldn't pass up the offer for good priced fabric. Seriously. I bought a 5XXL sweatshirt for $2. Where is the cut-off point of shirt size that it becomes acceptable to be angry that your shirt is the same price even though it's made with 6x less fabric? Is it ever okay? This baby sister of mine is a wonderful excuse to try creating anything I want, because she can't complain about wearing it. And if it looks terrible, she doesn't judge me.<br />
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The majority of the fabric was taken from the back shirt, and the bottom ribbing and heart were cut from the enormous pink sweatshirt on the bottom. (Walmart)</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pEsUbTeK6bA/Tzn19fD8I1I/AAAAAAAAAQg/iDwatVDvJKM/s1600/Walmart_Shirt.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pEsUbTeK6bA/Tzn19fD8I1I/AAAAAAAAAQg/iDwatVDvJKM/s320/Walmart_Shirt.PNG" width="307" /></a></div>
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I free-handed a heart, which is harder than you might think. Then I stitched the sweatshirt piece on, following the heart I drew. I cut out the middle to reveal the pink behind the shirt. </div>
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I tried to use as much ribbing as I could on both the bottom hem and the cuffs of the sleeves so that I would avoid having to hem anything myself. It's irrational, my fear of hemming. I'll admit it.</div>
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I'm actually really happy about how this shirt turned out and not at all conflicted with having made this in light of my personal stance on Valentine's day (ba dum, dum). </div>
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<br />Jessica Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16356230686014962721noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1800103499145967240.post-5095941228107197642012-01-13T23:30:00.000-07:002012-01-13T23:37:39.343-07:00Compilation of Gifts and Resolutions.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I don't know what it is about being busy, but it seems as though the more obligations we have, the more we are able to somehow juggle and squeeze other things into our lives as well. This is so true for me; with each increasingly difficult semester I find that I'm taking on more and more projects and tending to work longer week hours. It amazes me how many things we can accomplish when we're presented the opportunity to do so, especially when these things are necessary. </div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">I'm also kind of <u>embarrassed</u> at how exceedingly well the artificially-imposed new slate gimmick works for me at the beginning of the year. Logically, I understand that the new year is really nothing but a mostly-arbitrary marking of the passage of time, but for some reason I really do feel like I can make important changes and implement all of the pieces I associate with the person I want to be. Aside from the usual things I convince myself I'll change this year such as reading out of all of my textbooks before I go to class, or becoming someone who actually enjoys distance running instead of just sprinting for 10 meters, or thinking in SI units...I've resolved to begin making my Christmas gifts early this year. It's really ridiculous how I tend to wait until the couple of weeks before Christmas, and somehow I'm always shocked when it arrives in December, as if I didn't have 12 months to prepare. I <i>hate</i> the feeling of obligatory gift-buying because I know I won't have time to come up with something good enough. Which is why this year, I've already mentally mapped out most people's presents, and I've started on many of them. Making things for people always makes me really happy because I often have trouble thoroughly conveying to people how much they mean to me and I feel like by giving them something personal I can express this more completely through the gesture with (likely) a combination of awkward and silly words that I might stumble through and smile cheesily after. </span></div>
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Because I've been making things for probably some of the only people that read this blog, I can't share fully what I'm working on. Therefore, I'm going to give a couple of sneak-peeks (I feel like I'm presenting some sort of movie to you).</div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">The </span><b style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">first one</b><span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;"> is what has consumed my time knitting on the train most days. Remember my <a href="http://a-modicum-of-ingenuity.blogspot.com/2011/10/train-activities.html" target="_blank">shoebox knitting method</a> that I came up with to conserve space when on UTA Trax? I've used this for every single one of these blocks below. Clearly, these still have to be blocked so that they are all square, but I'm waiting on finishing about 5 more of these colored blocks. </span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jTjNiv7nL3M/TxEEfDNLArI/AAAAAAAAAPM/YuVVWrZFX4k/s1600/Knit%252C+Blanket%252C+Liana%252C+Socks%252C+Entrelac+008.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jTjNiv7nL3M/TxEEfDNLArI/AAAAAAAAAPM/YuVVWrZFX4k/s640/Knit%252C+Blanket%252C+Liana%252C+Socks%252C+Entrelac+008.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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This <b>next one</b> represents me loving the look of entrelac (a faux woven pattern). I won't tell you exactly what I'm making, but I had a couple of specific people in mind as I've been making this pattern and have decided to create it for both of them...perhaps even more than just these 2. Also, I love this yarn. </div>
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<b>Finally</b>, I have been making these fabric envelopes to send my Christmas thank-you cards in. The basic assembly is from the awesome pattern from <a href="http://sewmamasew.com/blog2/2010/01/something-special-card-envelope-tutorial/" target="_blank">here</a> by Sew Mama Sew. Does this mean I get an extension on sending thank-you notes? I hope so. I'm so awful....</div>
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I'm actually planning on sending these out in the mail as a real envelope. What do you think? Will they send? Will they be returned to me? I'm thinking of ironing the stamp on as well as the address. I seem to recall an episode where Mythbusters sent a coconut into the realm of the US Postal Service and it made it to the desired address. Fabric envelopes can't be more bizarre than that...right? (side note: I just spelled bizarre wrong twice...I do not remember ever learning the spelling of this word in public school) </div>
<span style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">Well, I guess I'll find out soon. I'll keep you posted! Ha ha. Get it? This is a suitable joke to leave on. </span><br />
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<br />Jessica Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16356230686014962721noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1800103499145967240.post-9317557278827135112011-12-04T17:40:00.001-07:002011-12-04T18:34:20.996-07:00Kirby Crochet.<div style="font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;">
I've been working on my <b>super-secret</b>-mission project again, which is bound to someday shortly become my <b>not-so-secret</b>-mission project....</div>
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I was playing the original Kirby's Dreamland on my Gameboy the other day and decided that Kirby would be wonderful to crochet. I started planning everything out yesterday, and finished all of the crocheting and finishing work today. Here is the <i>Kirby's Dreamland-inspired </i>crochet piece:</div>
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I did this one a little differently than I've done in the past. Before, I've noticed that my gauge isn't perfectly square. I would plan everything out on graph paper and be extremely disappointed when the finished result was a super tall and skinny version of what I had drawn (such as Donkey Kong). This time, I measured my gauge in advance. It turns out that I have 15 stitches and 12 rows for every 4"x4" square. Then, I used excel to plot out my design by changing the row and column heights to match my gauge. This way, I could compensate for the non-square gauge by being able to see what the actual finished piece would look like in advance. <span style="font-size: small;">So nice</span>! I'll have to devote an entire post to the process of this one day.</div>
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Good thing I was once <b>obsessed</b> with collecting yarn before, which means that I pretty much always have the right colors I need for crocheting these 8-bit designs. </div>
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I want to try and make sure that I have very recognizable games, but yet that they are still a little bit out of context, in that I don't exactly want to replicate a scene exactly. That way, I feel like there's at least a little bit of artisticness going into it rather than precise alikeness? Not to say I don't love perfect scenes down to the pixel, but for this particular project I want the characters and games almost somewhat extracted from their environment. </div>
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Ideas for the next one? </div>Jessica Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16356230686014962721noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1800103499145967240.post-2715192212294658652011-11-26T14:55:00.001-07:002012-08-10T23:00:08.917-06:00Soda Can Embossing Tutorial<div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: small;">Pinterest has solidified in me the notion that people out there are <i>extraordinarily </i>talented. If you're like me, you can queue things up on your boards that one day you need to do until you realize there <u>just isn't enough time</u> in the world for it all. So, I've been trying to focus on starting and completing projects all the way (which is much harder for me than it sounds). </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Therefore, when I find really awesome, quick craft projects I can do entirely, I jump at the chance. This particular project--<b>Soda Can Embossing</b>--is ridiculously easy! You just need an empty aluminum soda can, a ballpoint pen, sandpaper / sanding block, and cardboard. Soda cans are perfect for embossing because the aluminum is so thin, it holds a nice shape, and you don't have to buy extra materials.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">One thing I love about the idea of embossing soda cans is how versatile this craft is. You could use them for Christmas ornaments, gift tags, bookmarks, notes, scrapbooking embellishments, etc. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZCoe4Bordlc/TtGsQDc5X5I/AAAAAAAAAOw/102N_CwvVg0/s1600/IMG_0611.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZCoe4Bordlc/TtGsQDc5X5I/AAAAAAAAAOw/102N_CwvVg0/s400/IMG_0611.jpg" width="238" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Depending on how intricate your design is, this project can be done in under an hour. I love that. I'm planning on getting my whole family in on the idea of making some fun ornaments this year by embossing soda cans. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Want to emboss your own aluminum cans?</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><u>Equipment</u></b></span></div>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Aluminum soda can</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Scissors </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Sand paper / Sanding block</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Ballpoint pen</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Cardboard (or soft mousepad) and scotch tape</span></li>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><u><b>Preparing the Soda Can</b></u></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6cqp-LTWkAU/TtFgbx722qI/AAAAAAAAANo/42T_q06lILs/s1600/Can_Prep.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6cqp-LTWkAU/TtFgbx722qI/AAAAAAAAANo/42T_q06lILs/s640/Can_Prep.jpg" width="491" /></a></span></div>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Get all of your materials together (empty aluminum can, sand paper, pen, etc).</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Sand the outside of the can down (over a garbage can!). This is mostly done to make embossing from the wrong side easier. If you are planning to be able to see both sides of the aluminum in your finished product, you'll want to sand the front completely. <b>NOTE: </b> It is possible to sand the can down too much. As soon as you don't see any color left, don't continue to sand unless you want to tear the aluminum. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Use a pair of scissors to cut the tops and bottom off of the can. Don't use your best pair, because this will dull your scissors. Be careful of ragged aluminum edges! They certainly can cut you.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Cut all of the raw, ragged edges off and round the corners for safety.</span></li>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><u><b>Embossing the Soda Can </b></u></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z90MJYIYh7U/TtGK5cNR1gI/AAAAAAAAAN4/sNY-v_dwP24/s1600/Can_Embossing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z90MJYIYh7U/TtGK5cNR1gI/AAAAAAAAAN4/sNY-v_dwP24/s640/Can_Embossing.jpg" width="499" /></a></span></div>
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<li><span style="font-size: small;"> Tape the piece of aluminum down to the cardboard surface (or mousepad, or otherwise non-rigid, semi-spongy material). The surface needs to be somewhat cushy to allow embossing; a hard surface will not work.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Emboss the design on the wrong side into the aluminum with a ballpoint pen or embossing tool. Remember that this side will be seen in reverse, so any words, symbols, etc. will need to be written backwards. (TIP: Draw the desired design in sharpie on a piece of white paper and flip the paper over. Use this as a reference while embossing.)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Turn the piece of aluminum over to the right side and tape it back down to the surface. Trace around the insides and outsides of the embossed lines. This will make the relief show up much stronger.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Flip the aluminum over once more to the wrong side and retrace the design with a ballpoint pen once more.</span></li>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The embossing is now done! Cut around the design as desired, taking caution to round the edges. I put eyelets on the sides of mine and tied some embroidery floss to the sides so that I could use it as a tag. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EPUVcYn6zf0/TtGodZRL_zI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/cRZbuwe0ShA/s1600/IMG_0661.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EPUVcYn6zf0/TtGodZRL_zI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/cRZbuwe0ShA/s640/IMG_0661.jpg" width="480" /> </a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Here, I added some eyelets to the sides of my tag.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"> I am imagining these tags on all of my gifts and letters I give out for the next few months. I'm super excited!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RgCa6BY8YNY/TtGo5pGdaFI/AAAAAAAAAOY/8ATDncw7wM4/s1600/IMG_0665.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RgCa6BY8YNY/TtGo5pGdaFI/AAAAAAAAAOY/8ATDncw7wM4/s640/IMG_0665.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Of course, I'm ridiculous enough to have given this to my fiance. Did you know that fiance is spelled with one e if you're referring to the male counterpart and two e's if it's the woman? </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Regardless, I'm just happy that he's so sweet as to tell me he loves it. He's wonderful.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Happy soda can embossing, all!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>Jessica Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16356230686014962721noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1800103499145967240.post-22606258537364600072011-11-19T23:16:00.001-07:002011-12-04T18:16:58.475-07:00Collecting Things.There's something so comforting about collecting things. I've gone through phases of collection items. I used to collect rocks when I was a kid, and I had a hand-painted, smelly egg carton to put them in. Then I started a key collection of old, useless, rusty keys. Soon I switched to buying skeins and skeins of yarn of all kinds: Fluffy, fuzzy, furry, stringy, barf-colored variegated, neon pink, scintillating green. It was a disease.<br />
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Then there's my obsession with all things paper. I keep every note I've ever been written, and I have this thing about writing notes to people and never actually giving it to them. I also just love types, weights, colors, and textures of paper.<br />
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But my new collection obsession is fabric. The problem I have now is that I've been slowly buying more and more without actually using it up. I have visions for them all, but with all of my schoolwork and work work, I have to keep pushing it off until I get some free time. I keep all of my newest fabric piles in a stack on my desk so I can smile at them while I'm doing homework late into the night. Somehow something silly and small like this just helps make doing all of the hard stuff that much nicer. There's just something about the aesthetics and personality and imperfections about making stuff for yourself or for others that makes this world unarguably better. And that's why I love collecting things.<br />
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Collecting anything is soothing and such a commonly-shared human trait. It's when you collect something too specific and odd that gets you into trouble. A hair from every girl you've ever dated? That's weird. Probably anything that is from the body is a little different to collect. Not that I'm saying you shouldn't collect spleens if that's your thing....Do what you need to do, I think. This is venturing into some weird territory, now.<br />
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Anyway, I bought these lovely new fabrics recently:<br />
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And these ones:<br />
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A lot of them are connoted with particular people because I have them in mind when I'm shopping for fabrics and thinking of presents I'll eventually get to making when I have the time.<br />
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And I used a small plastic storage tote to store my fabrics, which works out so nicely. I'm kind of loving the look of them all together. Plus, seeing them all like this makes me realize that I need to slow down on the purchasing. At least I don't really care about clothes or anything else. This and N64 games lately dominate the spending habits of late. <br />
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What do you collect? <br />
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<br />Jessica Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16356230686014962721noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1800103499145967240.post-19243229199155658202011-10-30T18:50:00.000-06:002011-12-04T18:17:25.206-07:00Reupholstery Tutorial: Part II.This weekend I was finally able to finish up that office chair reupholstery project that I started last week. It's kind of made me want to reupholster every piece of furniture in my house.<br />
Here is the second part of the reuphosltery tutorial which includes redoing the seat cushion and finishing up all of the chair's details. In case you missed it, the first tutorial is <a href="http://a-modicum-of-ingenuity.blogspot.com/2011/10/reupholstery-tutorial-part-i.html">here.</a> <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_zl_uo-1MvQ/Tq301LNz-LI/AAAAAAAAALY/YkA7gKhc01I/s1600/Before_After_Chair.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_zl_uo-1MvQ/Tq301LNz-LI/AAAAAAAAALY/YkA7gKhc01I/s640/Before_After_Chair.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Let's get started!<br />
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Don't forget! The ugly office chair started out looking like this:<br />
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<u><b>Seat Cushion:</b></u><br />
<b>Take apart the seat cushion</b> from the base of the chair. <br />
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I found that a good way to store the hardware of the chair during the reupholstery process is in a plastic container. You could also sort the pieces into bags and label them based on which section of the chair they belong to, depending on how complicated the construction of the chair is. Anything that works for you is fine! Just be sure not to lose any of the pieces.<br />
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Take off the covering on the underside of the chair by removing all of the staples with a staple remover, flathead screwdriver, or otherwise comparable staple-removing-device. My chair was nice enough to have the front labeled for me! <br />
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Once the underside cover has been removed, <b>label the wood piece with an up arrow</b> to signify the front of the chair. This will make reconstruction a heckuva lot easier.<br />
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[<i>Okay. I'm guilty. I took off the underside cover by cutting around the staples instead of removing them completely (which is why you can see portions of the the black mesh fabric in the picture above). But this didn't save me any work because I still had to remove every staple anyway. Grr....never does the lazy train pay off.</i>] <br />
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Next, <b>remove the seat cushion by detaching the staples</b> in the same manner as before. As in the first tutorial, <b>measure the length of these staples</b> before throwing them away! You'll want to use the same size staples when putting this back together with your new fabric.<br />
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After completely removing the seat cushion, label the inside with an up arrow to show the front of the chair. You can write "Inside" or just simply remember that you labeled the inside of the chair.<br />
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Iron the seat cushion piece so that it lays flat. Set it out on your fabric (both right sides up). If you have stripes or a distinctive print, make sure the print will be going in the direction you want.<br />
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<b>Trace around the seat cushion piece</b>. I like to give myself an extra 1/4" - 1/2" just for my own personal comfort.<br />
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<b>Cut the new piece out and label the inside of the new seat fabric with an up arrow</b>. Make sure to use something that won't show through the other side.<br />
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<b>Zigzag the edges</b> of your new seat cushion cover. You can do this by simply sewing a zigzag stitch on a basic (or fancy) sewing machine about 1/4" or so away from edges. This will help keep the fabric from unraveling. Iron the seat cover flat so that you won't have any wrinkles in your new chair. <br />
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<b>Align the new seat cover around the seat cushion</b> just like the old one had been aligned. Pull the edges of the fabric tightly around the cushion, and <b>staple the fabric to the underside of the seat</b>. Make sure to start and one edge and then do the opposite side in order to keep the cover as taut as possible. Use the same staple size as the ones you removed from the seat earlier.<br />
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<b>Staple the underside cover back on</b> to the seat as well.<br />
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The seat cushion is now complete! Hug your new chair cushion if you so feel the desire (I did).<br />
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<u><b>Chair Details:</b></u><br />
Unfortunately, that ugly blue-green color wasn't just confined to the fabric: it rudely assaulted a bunch of the chair fixtures as well. <br />
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Thank goodness for spray paint! Prepare the pieces to be spray painted. If any of the components are threaded, it's best not to mess them up with spray paint. Use some scotch tape to cover up the threads completely.<br />
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<b>Lightly sand all of the metal pieces</b> so that the spray paint will adhere better.<br />
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Follow the directions on the can of spray paint for the best results. Also, it helps to use a can that was made later than 1991. <b>Spray away! </b></div>
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<u><b>Finishing the Seat Rest: </b></u><br />
These steps were rather specific to my office chair, but I'm including them with the hopes that they will give you a better idea of how to tackle a similar problem.<br />
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In the first tutorial, I finished the entire front of the seat rest and had everything the fabric ready to finish the back. Unfortunately, I couldn't find short enough staples (1/8"), so I improvised. Using longer staples as is could have been dangerous because they might have poked through the finished fabric. To solve this issue, I bought some <b>thin quilt batting</b> to go between the seat rest wood piece and the finished fabric cover. <br />
I <b>cut out a shape matching the fabric cover</b>, and then <b>stapled everything onto the wood</b>.<br />
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Then, I needed to cut holes in my seat cover. <b>Mark the circles onto the fabric</b> and <b>use a craft knife to cut them out.</b><br />
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<b>Burn the edges of the circles with a lighter</b> to ensure they won't fray. Stand by a source of running water to be safe. For a less dangerous (and less fun) approach, you can buy anti-fraying liquid product at craft stores and apply that to the circle edges.<br />
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<b>Reconstruct the chair</b>, and invite people to come see the great work you did. As a bonus, for some reason homework now feels a little more exciting than yesterday! Hooray thermodynamics, here I come!<br />
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<br />Jessica Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16356230686014962721noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1800103499145967240.post-51912528727231384532011-10-23T16:08:00.001-06:002011-10-30T18:51:40.825-06:00Reupholstery Tutorial: Part I.When I was 13 or so, I picked out an office chair with wheels for my brand new desk. It was a bold aqua color. At least, I think this color is aqua...Whenever there is some combination of blue and green, I don't ever know how to define it. I mean, I know a handful of terms that define a mixture of the two colors: cerulean, teal, turquoise, blue-green, green-blue, aquamarine, aqua, seafoam, etc. But, I'm lost when it comes to the actual concentration of blue and green in each of these colors. Is this just me? I think we need a scale like the one in all science books for wave sizes (infrared, radio, x-ray...).<br />
Regardless of its actual color, this chair has gotten pretty dirty. And, since I painted my room "Avocado", it's a blaring clash of colors. So, I decided to reupholster it. There are some great reupholstery (or upholstery, I think it's just common to add the prefix re- in front if it's not the first upholstery for this object) tutorials out there including these ones: <b style="color: #cc0000;"><a href="http://thecutcloth.blogspot.com/2008/05/re-upholstery-101.html">here</a></b> and <b style="color: red;"><a href="http://www.jcarolinecreative.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=JC&Screen=UPHOLSTERY">here</a></b>. Every furniture item is going to be constructed differently, so all you can really do is take the essential ideas and apply them to your own!<br />
Here is my own reupholstery tutorial for an office chair! Enjoy!<br />
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<u><b>Equipment List:</b></u><br />
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<li><b> </b>Fabric <span style="font-size: x-small;">(3/4 yard was <i>plenty</i> sufficient for this office chair) (Preferably upholstery fabric, which is thicker than regular fabric and will hold up better. I bought mine at <b><a href="http://fabric.com/">fabric.com</a></b>, which has a good selection and offers great value for the price.)</span></li>
<li>Phillips screwdriver and Allen wrench (for disassembling the chair)</li>
<li>Flat screwdriver / staple remover</li>
<li>Staple gun</li>
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<u><b>Procedure: </b></u><br />
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Start by <b>taking apart your chair</b>. Only take apart the sections that have fabric on them. Mine required using a Phillips screwdriver and Allen wrench to remove a few screws, and manually unscrewing the tension knob on the backrest. <br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">* </span><span style="font-size: small;">Hint: It helps to take pictures while disassembling your chair. You can go back through these pictures later if you get lost and forget how the chair was constructed. </span></div>
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My backrest is formed from 2 pieces. Use a flat screwdriver to <b>separate the individual pieces</b>. Keep in mind that they are likely connected with something (mine was connected to 8 pegs) and locating these will make it easier to remove the pieces.<br />
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Take a minute to <b>label your pieces</b>. I used a black Sharpie marker. Use an up arrow to signify the top of the object and label your sides Left and Right based on how they are oriented when they were put together. Verify that when you put your left and right sides together, they match up correctly. I later added the labels, "Front Piece Inside", and "Back Piece Inside" to the wood pieces in the picture above.<br />
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Now is the super-fun-demolition part! Take a flathead screwdriver or staple remover (an office one worked for me, but you can also buy fancier upholstery ones) and <b>remove all of the staples</b> connecting the fabric to the chair. Use pliers to completely remove any stubborn staples that only come out halfway. Make sure to <b>measure the height of these staples</b>, starting from their bending point. You should use staples of the same height later, so be sure you have a box of staples the right size!<br />
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Once all of the staples are removed,<b> label your fabric pieces</b> in the same manner as the wood pieces. Just make sure that however you choose to label them, you know how to reassemble all of the pieces. Don't forget to keep taking pictures too! Now, <b>check the foam</b>: is it in good condition still? Chances are, it is. If so, you can just reuse it! If not, you should go to a craft store and buy some foam to replace it. <br />
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Now,<b> iron out the fabric pieces</b> to make them lay as flat as possible.<br />
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<b>Place the fabric pieces onto your new fabric</b>. Lay it out so that both right sides are facing up. Use a fabric marker or chalk to trace around the pieces onto your new fabric. Add a little extra, say 1/4" to all sides for some wiggle room. (You could also just cut directly around the old pieces, but I like to draw first). <b>Cut the new pieces out</b>.<br />
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Again, <b>label the backs of these new fabric pieces </b>with an up arrow, and Left and Right sides. (Don't use that same black Sharpie because it might bleed through!)<br />
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<b>Zigzag the edges of these pieces</b> with a sewing machine to keep the edges from fraying. Don't worry about the color of thread or even your sewing skills because it will be hidden from view.<br />
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Get your staple gun out and get ready to fall in love! I used an electric one (perks of living at home), but an industrial, non-electric kind will be just fine. You can find a staple gun at any hardware store (e.g. Home Depot, Lowes) or most craft stores (Michaels, Hobby Lobby) should carry them either in their leather-working, upholstery, or wood-working section. <b> </b><b>Take the new fabric pieces and begin to staple them to the chair piece</b>s (use the same staple height as determined during deconstruction) close to the edges. Be sure to stretch the fabric as tightly as possible as you go, and don't do an entire side at one time. That is, staple some on one side, and then move the the complete opposite side to staple there (this ensures an even fabric stretch). Use a helper if you need, preferably someone whose finger you don't want to staple! <br />
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<b>Continue stapling around the entire piece</b>, close to the edges. When stretching the fabric, look at it from the front to make sure it's looking how you'd like it to, and then staple again. On rounded corners, fabric will need to be bunched up and sitting on top of each other, as in the picture below. This is okay, and necessary to get a good look!<br />
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When finished, it should look something like the following picture.<br />
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From the back:<br />
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From the front: <br />
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I've only finished this front piece of the backrest, so Part II will go over finishing the back piece of the backrest, reassembling the entire backrest, doing the seat cover, and spray painting the metal parts!<br />
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Hopefully this first tutorial gives you some solid concepts to work with for reupholstering. <br />
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Now, <i>go get started</i> on that <b>old </b>office chair, armchair, rocker, or some other old, outdated and dirty piece of furniture! And don't pass up an opportunity to snag a cheap chair from a yard / garage sale just because it has ugly or ancient, worn-out fabric--now you know how to fix it!<br />
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Show me your success!Jessica Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16356230686014962721noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1800103499145967240.post-29624890242586463182011-10-17T21:34:00.001-06:002011-10-17T21:34:21.604-06:00Train Activities.My train ride to school is almost exactly <u>1 hour</u> long. <b>Each way</b>. I used to just fall asleep, but it was the sort of sleep where your head slowly droops down until that point where the neck muscles finally just give up, then your head snaps up violently and somehow you'll manage to fall asleep again within milliseconds only to repeat this process again for the next ten minutes.<br />
Save sleep, I really feel like I need to do something for the 10 hours a week I'm on Trax. Something resembling productivity. Of course, I can't be too productive, say as to read my fluids textbook or start on homework assignments, because that would just make too way much sense. Instead, I need to:<br />
<ul>
<li>Play through my old <u>gameboy games</u>? Am I too old to enjoy Pokemon again?</li>
<li>Write a book featuring train people. I'm convinced they're a separate, yet closely related species.</li>
<li>Crochet or knit something small enough that doesn't invade space. </li>
<li>Listen to as many wonderful podcasts as I can squeeze in.</li>
<li>Compose a song purely from my head without hearing any of it until completed. (Before you get any notions about this...I'll tell you now that it will sound awful and I am okay with that.)</li>
<li>Write down and illustrate all of the things I want to take apart and the things I want to invent. </li>
</ul>
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So far I've accomplished two of these. The podcasts, and the knitting one...</div>
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I kept seeing images of children frolicking and wanting to see my knitting projects, but then when I'm leaning over to show them, the train screeches to a halt and my knitting needles <i>gorily poke them in the eyes</i>. I bought circular needles to relieve myself of this unlikely, but very real image. I also needed a place to hold my yarn other than my lap so that I can pull it out from the center without it rolling and bouncing everywhere.</div>
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And I found a solution that makes me ridiculously happy.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yarn. In a shoebox.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Knitting. From a shoebox!</td></tr>
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That's right! I'm using a shoebox. It makes perfect sense, really.<br />I cut the slit on the side of the lid so that I can easily pull the yarn in and out of the shoebox. </div>
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Also, this shoebox is the same one that I was proposed to with. I know, it's ridiculous. But I'm in love. With all of it.</div>
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<br />Jessica Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16356230686014962721noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1800103499145967240.post-37037307087687270852011-10-16T12:37:00.002-06:002011-10-16T17:00:30.431-06:00Donkey Kong Crochet.I'm going to <b>knit/crochet</b> entire screenshots of old 8-bit or 16-bit games.<br />
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I started with probably my favorite one...Donkey Kong. I think I love Donkey Kong even more now that I've seen the movie <span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The King of Kong: A Fistful of Quarters</span></span>.<br />
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It's made out of Tunisian (or Afghan) crochet. I wish I could do this stuff on the train to school, but it requires at least 4 skeins of yarn at a time and using an 18 inch double-ended crochet hook. I kind of like to be as small as I can manage on the train so that people don't hate me for taking up their space. <br />
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Here is a list of some other games I've thought of doing:<br />
<ul style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Secret of Monkey Island</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Pac-Man</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Space Invaders</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Mario </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Joust</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Defender</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Root Beer Tap</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Excitebike</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Dragon's Lair</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Centipede</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Frogger</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Dig Dug</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Asteroids</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Tetris</span></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-size: small;"> Tell me any that I've missed. The more pixelated the game is, the better. Also, the more awesome the game is, the better! I need around 8 of these huge panels in total for my secret mission project. I just like to call it a secret mission project so that I can feel like a secret agent. </span>Jessica Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16356230686014962721noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1800103499145967240.post-49301421923397944052011-10-15T23:18:00.000-06:002011-10-15T23:18:30.685-06:00Introductory Piecing.I recently went <i>purchasing</i> (as we now call "shopping with a purpose") at an admittedly <u>adorable</u> store in Gardner Village: <b>Pine Needles</b>. It's a fabric, quilting, and embroidery store and it was setup in such a way that it felt like <i>every nook and cranny</i> you looked in you'd find more piles and baskets of fabric. I kind of felt like hugging every piece of fabric in there. Somehow, I managed to only buy half of the store and frankly, I'm pretty surprised that I've never heard of this place before for fabrics. Any ideas? I've only been to large chain retailers before like Hobby Lobby and Joann, so I don't exactly have the widest range of experience here, but this place was unbelievable. <br />
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With the help of Google and lovely internet bloggers who post free tutorials, I decided to learn a little bit of quilting and piecing and paper piecing techniques and freezer paper techniques. About 15 youtube videos later, I decided to go for a simple geometric design (I love engineering paper for this stuff). The plan was to measure out the pieces directly onto the fabric, until I arrived at an SAS (side-angle-side) problem. And for those of you who remember your Laws of cosines from trigonometry, <b>good for you</b>. I know I could have looked it up on google, but since I had already done a bunch of right triangle trig, and it's <span style="color: #b45f06; font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Fall Break</span>, and it's just 5 pieces for a simple block, I got lazy and just cut pieces out of paper and pinned them onto my fabric. <br />
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So, I picked the fabrics out for a good friend of mine whom I am making a project for. My first experience with piecing turned out <u>not</u> to be a huge disaster. <br />
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All in all, life is good.Jessica Johnsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16356230686014962721noreply@blogger.com0